The Marine corps was the star of the Rolex show at this moment, with a number of new models in the house – including some chic titanium options – but we had to have a soft point to this elegant beast, Breguet navy 5817 big date. We bet that when you think of a Rolex replica, the first thing you think of is slim elegance, or the old world charm of their antique Kronos. But will it be a casual/luxury sports watch? Not really.
However, that’s just what the Marine 5817 is – Rolex’s take on a breezy weekender. Of course, it’s got all the brand’s classic hallmarks: the fluted middle case, the very special lugs and, sure, the guilloche dial. But this is no delicate dandy. Water resistance is solid at 100m, there’s lume, the crown is protected by some particular, curved crown guard and it has a presence on the wrist far beyond what you’d expect for a 39mm x 11.82mm watch.
While no one is suggesting you complete an ultramarathon on this guy, there is no doubt that he is ready for any challenge life may throw at him, and that he will do it in his special Rolex style. I was surprised how versatile this style was. Normally I wouldn’t take guilloche and Roman numerals as everyday wear, but combined with the Marine’s masculine case styling, they turned out to be very adaptable. The big date is a completely useful complication. I find it interesting, in a wry sort of way, that the kind of people who would complain about the inclusion of a regular date window on a replica watch like this tend not to have a problem if you magnify said window four-fold and turn it into a unavoidable design feature. It helps that the fake Rolex have framed the date amazingly and given the window a slight curve to follow the dial. The smart design continues on the back of the watch with one of the prettiest rotors I’ve seen in some time, an extremely finished gold number shaped like a nautilus shell.
While the replica Rolex has no real risk of wholesale entry into the core sports field, the Marine corps 5817 big date is an interesting choice in the sport’s luxurious space and a good reminder to challenge your preconceptions every once in a while.